St. Peter's and Museums

Today was a major day for seeing sites in Rome! Once again, we were up and out early so we could spend the day exploring St. Peter’s Basilica, Hadrian’s Mausoleum, the National Museum of Rome, and the Diocletian Baths.

First up was St. Peter’s. With COVID and security, you can’t walk straight in anymore; we had to go through a line to get through a temperature screen and metal detectors. Then the church itself is roped off in a way to keep people moving in one direction through it. However, it is so big, I hardly noticed the limitations. Immediately on the right wall is a Pieta by Michelangelo—unfortunately behind glass, but still incredibly beautiful and emotional. Looking around, the basilica is enormous. Every column and pillar is surrounded from top to bottom with its own set of huge beautiful statues, paintings, and elaborate plaster and stonework. The Baroque effect is as overwhelming as it is meant to be. We explored as much of the main church as the public is allowed, and then went down a set of stairs into the Papal Tombs—the burial place of most of the Popes, including the grave of St. Peter, the original Pope. The tombs were a quiet and prayerful place. Finally, we went out to the side of the church to follow a 551-step staircase up the inside walls, around the inside of the dome, and then up inside the dome itself to the very top! The feeling of climbing up inside the dome as it curls over is very strange… At the top, the views over the Vatican and Rome were beautiful!

After the hike back down, we headed east to Hadrian’s Mausoleum, now known as Castel Sant’Angelo. This 2nd-century castle and museum was built as the tomb of Emperor Hadrian and was originally topped with a garden full of trees and statues. In the 16th century, Pope Gregory took it over as a safe house—an escape from the Vatican in case of invaders. Although it is now a museum, with ancient Roman statues and decorations from the time of Hadrian, it also has the military accoutrements of a medieval fort. After walking through the spiral structure and seeing the wide range of art and architecture, we were a bit footsore, so we ate lunch at the rooftop terrace overlooking the Vatican. The panini, cappuccinos, vino, and the view were bellisima! Maybe a bit overpriced, but we highly recommend this place for a relaxing lunch or snack.

Next up, we visited the National Museum of Rome Palazzo Massimo alle Terme. This museum is right next to Roma Termini train station, and the exhibits are a can’t-miss! Many of the exhibits are statues, frescoes, and mosaics from Pompeii, Herculaneum, or local Roman public baths, including the Diocletian Baths across the street. One fresco, in particular, was a whole-room, 4-walled fresco from the Villa Julia. The fresco is of a garden, viewed as if you are sitting on a patio in the center of it, with trees blowing the wind, fruit ripening, birds singing, and the feel of a cool breeze blowing through. There were many other frescoes as well, giving a sense of the world of color that wealthy ancient Romans lived in—art throughout every room of their houses. Mosaics covered floors or walls and were incredibly detailed, showing mythical scenes, portraits, or patterns in plain black and white or the whole rainbow of color.

Diocletian Baths: These are actually part of the National Museum of Rome, but the large ancient bath complex is kitty-corner from the museum, around the Roma Termini bus station. What used to be vast thermal baths for the health and social life of the Roman public is now mostly just a shell housing funereal artwork and decorations. Think sarcophagi, unlabeled marble busts, and lots of chunks of marble columns. At the end of a long, hot day, it didn’t add a lot to our visit.

The Day's Stats

551 steps climbed to the top of St. Peter’s, 4.6 miles walked, and countless pictures of mosaics taken

The Day's Tips

The Diocletian Baths aren’t worth your time unless you’re getting a Ph.D. in ancient Roman sarcophagi. Spend more time in the National Museum of Rome looking at mosaics and frescoes!

The Day's Favorites

Cal: Our relaxing lunch on the rooftop terrace of Hadrian’s Mausoleum, looking out over the Vatican

Val: The 4-walled-surround fresco of a garden from Villa Julia, now inside the National Museum of Rome.